Flue relining installs a new stainless steel liner inside an existing chimney, giving the appliance a correctly sized, continuous, code-compliant path to vent. It is the standard fix for damaged clay tiles and unlined flues. One free call to (888) 650-3035 connects you with a certified local chimney pro.
It begins with a camera. Before recommending a liner, the pro scans the flue and documents what is actually there — cracked or shifted clay tiles, missing mortar joints, or bare brick with no liner at all — so you can see the evidence yourself. Then comes sizing, which is the heart of the job: the liner is sized to the appliance it will vent, following the manufacturer's specifications and code tables, not simply to fill the old flue. Alloy matters too. 316-grade stainless handles wood and oil; high-efficiency gas appliances with acidic condensate call for specific alloys rated for it. The liner system should be listed to UL 1777, the safety standard for chimney liners, with matched components throughout.
Installation day starts with a thorough sweep, since the liner goes into a clean flue. The liner — flexible or rigid stainless, usually wrapped in insulation to keep flue gases warm for good draft and to maintain the system's listing — is lowered from the top of the chimney. If the old flue is too tight, the pro may break out the damaged clay tiles first to make room for an insulated liner. At the bottom, a listed tee or connector joins the appliance; at the top, a plate seals the flue and a new cap goes on. Expect before-and-after camera footage or photos, the component listing paperwork, a permit where your jurisdiction requires one, and the manufacturer's warranty registered in your name.
The easiest mistake is choosing liner diameter by what slides down the flue rather than what the appliance requires. Oversized liners let flue gases cool and slow, causing condensation, poor draft, and faster creosote buildup in wood systems; undersized liners choke the appliance. Correct sizing comes from the appliance manufacturer's venting specifications and code tables. Ask what size is being installed and how it was determined — the answer should reference your specific appliance.
A liner is a listed system — the liner, tee, top plate, and cap are tested together to UL 1777, and insulation is often part of what earned that listing. Swapping in off-brand components or skipping the insulation wrap to save labor can void the listing and the warranty, and uninsulated liners in exterior chimneys draft poorly and condense more. Ask whether the installation maintains the system's listing exactly as tested, and get the answer in the paperwork.
Relining is one of the bigger jobs in chimney work, which makes 'your tiles are shot' a tempting verdict to deliver quickly. Cracked tiles are a real and legitimate reason to reline — but the claim should be demonstrated, not asserted. Insist on camera footage showing the specific defects, ask the pro to point them out on screen, and keep a copy. If the evidence is vague or the footage is withheld, a second inspection is a fair and normal next step.
These are call-a-professional signs, not panic signs. Stop using the fireplace until it's been looked at, and describe what you're seeing when you call.
With the right alloy for the fuel and normal maintenance, a quality stainless liner is typically a permanent fix — many manufacturers back their heavy-gauge liners with lifetime warranties, conditioned on listed installation and regular sweeping. The warranty paperwork matters: register it, keep your inspection records, and the liner should outlast most other parts of the system. The pro can walk you through the specific brand's terms.
Yes, and it is one of the most overlooked cases. Gas exhaust is wet and mildly acidic, and it quietly eats mortar joints in old masonry flues. The classic scenario is a replaced furnace that leaves the water heater venting alone into a flue far too large for it, which causes condensation inside the chimney. A correctly sized liner solves the mismatch.
Stainless liners are the most common approach, but not the only one. Cast-in-place liners pour a new cement flue inside the old chimney and can add structural stability; individual clay tiles can sometimes be replaced when damage is isolated and accessible. Which method fits depends on the flue's condition, shape, and what it vents — a judgment the pro makes after a camera scan, not over the phone.
That depends on what the inspection found, and it is a question for the pro who actually looked at your flue rather than for anyone working sight-unseen. Some defects are wait-and-schedule; others mean the flue should rest until the liner is in. Ask the inspector directly for a written go or no-go, and if the answer is no, ask them to show you the finding behind it.
Yes — call (888) 650-3035 and ChimneyBeacon connects you with an independent certified chimney professional handling flue relining (stainless liners) in your area. The referral is free; the local pro schedules and prices the work directly with you.
Honest answer: it depends on what a professional actually finds — access, condition, materials, and scope move every quote. Any firm number invented before someone has seen your chimney is marketing, not pricing. The certified pro quotes after looking, in writing, and our referral adds nothing to it.
Sometimes a low quote is a lean, honest operator — and sometimes it's a teaser that grows an 'emergency' once the crew is on your roof. Judge the quote by what it documents, not what it totals: photos, scope, and materials in writing beat a low number with none of the three.
The pros in our network are independent businesses, and the credentials — CSIA certification, insurance, licensing where applicable — are theirs. Ask directly; good pros expect it and answer without flinching. Our CSIA guide explains exactly what the certification covers and why it matters.
One free call connects you with an independent certified chimney professional in your area.
Call (888) 650-3035 — Free Referral